How to Test a Harley Crank Position Sensor

A Harley-Davidson motorcycle engine may sputter and hesitate when a crank position sensor (CKP) starts to fail. The CKP sends data to the motorcycle computer data center about the position and speed of the crankshaft, the ignition and fuel injection. A malfunctioning CKP can cause the engine to backfire due to unburned fuel and hesitate when accelerating. The symptoms of a faulty CKP worsen when the bike is revved up. Contaminated fuel or bad spark plugs can also cause similar problems, so you may need to test the crank position sensor.

Difficulty:

Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Pencil
• Paper

1. • 1

     Turn the key in the ignition to the "Off" position. Turn the "Run/Stop" switch to "Run." Push and hold the odometer "Reset" button. Hold the "Reset" button and do not release it yet.

   • 2

     Turn the key to "Ignition," but don't start the engine. Release the odometer "Reset" button. Wait for the odometer to indicate the bike is in diagnostic mode by displaying "Diag." Push the odometer reset button and then release it when you see the "P" in the menu selection flashing.

   • 3

     Wait for the bike to complete the diagnostic of the electronic control module and the ignition control module. Write down the codes that are displayed after the diagnostic is complete. Code PO 374 indicates a failed or faulty crank position sensor due to a synchronization error.

Tips & Warnings

• The following codes are reported for the crank position sensor:

• P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent

• P0374 CKP Sensor Not Detected

• P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error EFI

• You cannot service crank position sensors, and you should replace them if faulty or damaged.

How to Change a Harley-Davidson Tire

Harley-Davidson's motorcycles are famous for their ability to be ridden for long distances. During these long trips, the motorcycle's tires will wear away and require eventual replacement. While most Harley-Davidson owners delegate the task to a mechanic, changing the tire yourself is a rewarding and money-saving endeavor. If you are willing to take the time to do the job yourself, make the investment in a sturdy motorcycle lift that will support your Harley-Davidson while you remove the wheels and tires.

Difficulty:

Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Motorcycle stand
• Allen socket set
• Hex socket set
• Socket wrench
• Wrench set
• Valve core tool
• Tire irons
• New tire
• Air compressor

1. Wheel Removal

   • 1

     Place the motorcycle on a motorcycle-specific stand or lift to raise the affected tire off the ground.

   • 2

     Using an Allen socket, remove the front brake caliper's bolts and slide the caliper off the front brake rotor. Loosen the front axle lock nut using a socket wrench. Tap the front axle out of the front fork and wheel using a rubber mallet. Lower the wheel to the ground and roll it away from the motorcycle.

   • 3

     Remove the rear axle lock nut using a socket wrench. Loosen the rear wheel adjusters using a wrench. Push the rear wheel forward to loosen the drive belt. Pull the belt off of the rear wheel's pulley. Tap the rear axle out of the rear swing arm and wheel using a rubber mallet. Lower the wheel to the ground and roll it away from the motorcycle.

   Changing the Tire

   • 1

     Lay the wheel on a pair of wooden blocks with the brake rotor facing up. Unscrew the valve stem using a valve core tool and allow the tire to deflate. Push the tire downward to create a gap between the wheel's rim and the tire.

   • 2

     Slip a tire iron between the tire and the rim, placing the tire iron in the 12 o'clock position. Slip a second tire iron into place at the 2 o'clock position. Press both tire irons toward the center of the wheel to stretch a portion of the tire over the rim.

   • 3

     Remove the second tire tire iron and replace it in the 4 o'clock position. Maintain your grip on the first tire iron. Press down on the second tire iron to pull more of the tire over the rim. Repeat until the entire upper edge of the tire has been stretched over the rim.

   • 4

     Pull out the inner tube from the tire. Pull the remaining edge of the tire closer to the top of the wheel's rim. Lift the wheel onto its side and insert a tire iron between the tire and the edge of the rim. Pull the tire iron upward to force the tire off the rim.

   • 5

     Place a new tire onto the wheel, hooking the lower edge of the tire over the upper edge of the wheel's rim. Press down firmly on the tire to force its lower edge completely onto the rim.

   • 6

     Inflate the inner tube partially with an air compressor. Insert the inner tube into the tire and pull the valve stem through the hole in the rim. Press the tire downward to bring the remaining edge of the tire closer to the wheel's rim.

   • 7

     Place a tire iron between the tire and the rim. Press down on the tire iron to lever the tire over the rim. Work your way around the wheel, stretching small portions of the tire onto the rim until it is completely mounted on the wheel.

   • 8

     Inflate the inner tube completely with compressed air to seat the tire on the wheel. Reinstall the wheel onto the motorcycle.

How to Rebuild a Carburetor for a Harley

Close up engine

If your Harley is not running the way it should, it might be time to rebuild the carburetor. S & S is a popular carburetor for a Harley V-twin engine. The fuel to run the Harley runs through the carburetor, mixing with the right amount of air, leaving sediment and particles behind gumming up the inner works of the carburetor. Once the particles are in the carburetor, the bike will not perform as it should. It will run sluggish and possibly not even start. A rebuild kit for the carburetor can be purchased at most motorcycle part supply stores. The process of rebuilding a carburetor is not too difficult.

Difficulty:

Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Screwdriver
• Carburetor rebuild kit
• Carburetor cleaner

1. • 1

     Disconnect the fuel line and drain the carburetor. Remove the carburetor from the intake manifold. Check the plugs that are located in the body of the carburetor for signs of leaking. If signs show that they are leaking, replace the plugs.

   • 2

     Remove the idle mixture screw. Count the turns it takes to remove the screw, make a note of how many turns it took. Check the throttle plate for wear. There should be no light showing when the carburetor is closed. Replace if necessary.

   • 3

     Clean the idle mixture screw and mark it with a marker just to the tapered part. Replace the screw by screwing it completely into the carburetor. Remove the screw and check to see if any of the marker has been rubbed off. If it has, use the new idle mixture screw from the kit and discard the old one.

   • 4

     Remove the enrichment plunger nut and spring from the carburetor. Check the tip of the plunger for wear.

   • 5

     Take the screws out of the bowl of the carburetor. Do not remove the cap.

   • 6

     Remove the float pin screw. Locate and remove the float pin, float and needle. Replace if warn with new parts in the rebuild kit.

   • 7

     Take the seat from the bottom of the carburetor bowl. Install the new seat that is in the rebuild kit.

   • 8

     Check the ejector nozzle for kinks or wear. Install the new nozzle O-ring.

   • 9

     Clean and check the float for holes. Install a new needle. Place the entire unit back into the bowl. Move all the parts to be sure they move easily.

   • 10

     Turn the bowl over and take out the screws that held the cap in place. Take the balls and O-rings out of the casting.

   • 11

     Replace the ball checks, seats, spring and diaphragm with the new ones supplied in the rebuild kit.

   • 12

     Replace the pump shaft and boot. Install the new bowl gasket and secure with the provided screws.

   • 13

     Reinstall the cables before bolting the carburetor back onto the intake manifold.

   • 14

     Position the carburetor with the backing plate and breather assembly and bolt back together.

   • 15

     Replace the idle screw, turning the same number of turns it took to take it out. Start the bike and check the cables. Adjust the idle screw if necessary for the proper idle. Take her for a test ride to ensure all is running smooth.

Tips & Warnings

• Perform each step very carefully.

• Keep the work area and the carburetor clean while rebuilding.

• Clean parts as they are removed and installed or reinstalled in the carburetor.

How to Check Oil in a Harley Davidson

Many motorcycle riding courses instruct their students to check their motorcycle's oil supply before every ride. This is a fairly simple task for most motorcycles, but Harley-Davidson machines, which use three separate oil types, pose a rather unique problem. While the motor's oil supply and the transmission fluid can be checked easily with the dip sticks built into the filler caps, the primary drive's fluid supply is only accessible by removing the primary's round derby cover.

Difficulty:

Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Towel
• Harley-Davidson 20W50 motor oil
• Harley-Davidson primary fluid
• Torx-27 screwdriver
• Harley-Davidson transmission fluid

1. Checking the Motor Oil

   • 1

     Start the motorcycle. Let it warm up in place for three minutes, then stop the motor.

   • 2

     Unscrew the filler cap from the right side of the oil tank, below the rider's seat. Wipe the cap's dip stick clean with a towel.

   • 3

     Reinsert the dip stick completely into the oil tank and withdraw it. Take note of the oil level in relation to the Add line marked on the dip stick.

   • 4

     Pour 20W50 motor oil into the oil tank's filler neck to raise the oil level as needed. Reinsert the dip stick and screw the oil filler cap into place.

   Checking the Transmission Fluid

   • 1

     Unscrew the filler cap from the right side of the transmission unit. Wipe the cap's dip stick clean with a towel.

   • 2

     Reinsert the dip stick completely into the transmission and withdraw it. Take note of the oil level in relation to the Add line marked on the dip stick.

   • 3

     Pour Harley-Davidson transmission fluid into the transmission's filler neck to raise the oil level as needed. Reinsert the dip stick and screw the filler cap into place.

   Checking the Primary Fluid

   • 1

     Unscrew the derby cover's bolts, using a Torx-27 screwdriver. Pull the derby cover and its gasket away from the primary cover to access the clutch inspection port.

   • 2

     Look into the primary cover through the clutch inspection port. Take note of the primary fluid level in relation to the bottom of the primary's clutch assembly.

   • 3

     Pour Harley-Davidson primary fluid into the clutch inspection port to raise the fluid level to the bottom of the clutch assembly as needed.

   • 4

     Reinstall the derby cover and its gasket onto the primary cover. Tighten the derby cover bolts, using a Torx-27 screwdriver.

Tips & Warnings

• You do not need to check the primary fluid level on a Harley-Davidson Sportster. Sportster models do not use a separate oil supply to lubricate the primary, relying on the motor oil instead.

How to Convert a Harley Sportster 883 to a Bobber Chopper

Bobbers became popular with soldiers after World War II.

Flag this photo

Bobbers date back to the World War II era. They came along before choppers and were simply modified stock motorcycles. Some of the modifications were removing fenders, blinkers, the windshield and anything else that was not necessary for the motorcycle to perform correctly. Smaller gas tanks, smaller headlights and springer front ends were also installed. Solo seats with springs for comfort were all the rage, as well. Choppers are basically extended versions of bobbers.

Difficulty:

Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Mechanic's tool set
• Motorcycle lift
• Solo seat with 3-inch springs (and mounting hardware for the Sportster 883)
• Bolt-on rigid hardtail or solid struts
• 2-inch under Springer front end (This is optional depending on the look you want)
• Drag handlebars or Ape hangers (if you choose Ape hangers you will need to purchase longer brake and clutch cables)
• Handlebar risers
• Side mount for license plate and brake light.
• 1 Smaller size mirror

Suggest Edits

1. • 1

     Remove the turn signals. Follow the wires to their respective plug-ins and disconnect. Check with your state laws about turn signals on motorcycles.

   • 2

     If you plan to use a Springer front end you will need to place the motorcycle on a lift. Remove the front tire and brake assembly. Remove the headlight, handlebars and handlebar components. Remove the handlebar risers and the steering neck nut and triple-tree. The front end should slide right out of the frame, and you can then replace it with your Springer front end. Install the brake assembly and front tire.

   • 3

     Install your new risers, handlebars and smaller mirror, and assemble your components. (If you plan on using ape hangers you will have to purchase longer brake and clutch cables, as well as extend the wires for any electrical components attached to the handlebars.)

   • 4

     Remove the seat and install the new solo seat with properly fitted hardware. (If you are installing a rigid hardtail, skip this step until the hardtail is installed.)

   • 5

     Install hardtail struts in place of the stock suspension. If you are using a bolt-on hardtail instead of struts you must remove the rear tire, brake assembly, exhaust, fender, suspension, and swingarm. Bolt on the hardtail with provided hardware. Install rear tire, brake assembly and exhaust.

   • 6

     Remove the brake light and license plate mount from the rear fender while it is off the motorcycle. Modify your fender as desired or go with no fender. Install the fender without the brake light or license plate mount.

   • 7

     Install the side license plate mount with the tail light to the rear wheel axle. Use the existing wiring to connect the new brake light.

Tips & Warnings

• Some people change out the gas tank on bobbers to a smaller tank. Because the Sportster already has the smallest tank available, this step is not needed.

• Check local and state laws before any modifications are made to your turn signals and license plate placement.

How to Adjust a Harley Clutch Cable

Harley-Davidson motorcycles are built to withstand the stress of long-distance riding. A proper maintenance routine, however, is the key to your motorcycle's continued performance. As with most motorcycles, many Harley-Davidson motorcycles rely on a basic, cable-actuated system to operate the clutch. Cable upkeep is low-maintenance; however, these cables stretch over time, causing an excess of free play at the clutch lever. If left unchecked, excessive free play at the lever will prevent the clutch from disengaging completely, leading to premature transmission wear. Prevention comes in the form of routine cable adjustments, which rein in the amount of free play allowed at the lever and keep clutch engagement operating properly.

Difficulty:

Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Torx-27 socket
• Socket wrench
• Combination wrench set, standard (SAE)
• Primary fluid
• Towels or rags
• Motorcycle stand or lift (optional)

1. • 1

     Locate the cable adjuster at the middle of the clutch cable and twist clockwise until the adjuster is seated against the cable sleeve. This will loosen the cable and place the clutch lever is at its loosest point.

   • 2

     Access the clutch adjuster in the primary cover by removing the derby cover, using a Torx-27 socket to unscrew the two mounting bolts. If the motorcycle is parked on its side stand, a small amount of primary fluid may spill out of the derby cover port.

   • 3

     Locate the clutch adjuster in the primary cover and loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut with the appropriately sized wrench, unscrewing the lock nut two complete turns out.

   • 4

     Reset the clutch cable's slack by turning the primary's clutch adjuster clockwise until it is seated against the clutch release. Do not over tighten the adjuster---it should be touching the clutch release without placing pressure on it. This will remove all slack from the clutch cable.

   • 5

     Loosen the clutch adjuster by turning the adjuster counterclockwise a full turn from the seated position to provide a small amount of free play in the cable. Tighten the clutch adjuster lock nut while holding the adjuster in position.

   • 6

     Pull and release the clutch lever to ensure that the cable is moving properly within the cable sleeve. Twist the mid-cable adjuster counterclockwise to tighten the slack in the cable, leaving 1/16 inch to 1/8 inch of slack at the clutch lever.

   • 7

     Wipe away any primary fluid that may have spilled and top off with fresh fluid before replacing the derby cover. Tighten the bolts with a Torx-27 socket.

Tips & Warnings

• For best results, adjust the clutch play when the bike is cold.

• Place the bike on a stand or lift to provide additional stability.

• Consult a service manual for comprehensive details about this process, torque specifications and other requirements.

How to Transfer the Warranty on a Harley-Davidson Motorcycle

Harley-Davidson motorcycles are one of the most popular motorcycles in the world.

When you are ready to sell your Harley-Davidson motorcycle, you will not only want to transfer the title of your motorcycle to the buyer, but you will want to transfer the warranty as well. Every new Harley-Davidson motorcycle comes with a two-year warranty that begins the day that you purchase the motorcycle. Transferring the warranty to the buyer allows you to not be hounded by the buyer, if the bike malfunctions after the transaction is complete.

Difficulty:

Moderately Easy

Instructions

1. • 1

     Locate your local dealership. If you do not know the location of your nearest dealership, visit the Harley-Davidson website and click the "Dealer Locator" button at the top of the page. Input your "ZIP Code," "City," or "State," and then click "Find." Write down the address of your nearest dealership.

   • 2

     Visit the dealership and ask a sales associate or the financial manager for a warranty transfer form. On the form, include information, such as the motorcycle's VIN number and the address, phone number and name of the buyer and seller. The seller and the buyer must sign the form in person. The sales associate or financial manager will file the paperwork.

   • 3

     Receive the warranty card in the mail. It will be sent to both parties involved in the transfer in three weeks.